This city is not really a proper city; it is a market town, with very small streets, lots of which are made of actual cobblestones. Much of the place is pedestrianized, and what isn’t should be. Outside of the center, even the so-called major roads are nothing like what I’m used to in the vast automobile nirvana that is the American West.
In Seattle and Portland cars and pedestrians and bicycles have lots of space and mostly avoid any problems. Sure, there are accidents, and people do dumb risky things. But the streets are definitely wide enough to accommodate everyone who wishes to be out.
Here, the bus drivers whip their enormous vehicles around corners so fast the bus comes up on the sidewalk and could literally squash an unsuspecting passerby. Taxis drive two or three times faster than they should. Delivery trucks do whatever they like, and woe to the person or object in their way. There are people swarming everywhere, and bicycles streaming by constantly.
Back in the states I was notoriously paranoid about safety and could barely manage to ride my bicycle three blocks on side streets to visit friends. I liked being in my car; it was a solid safety shield. Moving here meant changing lots of daily habits, and at first I was not able to ride down even easy streets like Trinity.
But now I cycle everywhere. I didn’t force myself to do it; I didn’t even notice it happening. Over the course of six months I have grown used to the implied peril of the cars streaming past. I ride on the streets without fear.
I’m still cautious, but I am completely capable of spending a day on the bike, doing errands, riding down dodgy streets, buying groceries, making my way back to the boat again.
This morning we were crossing the street at an appropriate crossing point. A taxi coming toward us realized we were there and accelerated to force us out of the way.
I was not amused. Instead of doing what I might have back home — ceding the space — I jumped in front of the car. I leaned forward and looked at the man, then Byron and I walked very, very slowly, forcing him to wait.
There was much rude gesturing and for the first time I really felt properly acclimated to England.