• Did I mention that when we left Loveland the rental car started flashing every possible indicator light? Oh – and it refused to shift out of first gear. The choice was to remain at a closed ski lodge, wait in a sketchy turnout, or…. coast.

    From the Continental Divide all the way to Georgetown. Not knowing if the brakes would hold. Um. Fun!

    After the scary road part it wouldn’t have been so bad. Except the folks were waiting for us to do a belated xmas dinner. But hey, these things happen – and I have long held a place in my heart for the home of the real life Charlie Utter!

    We took shelter in a restaurant for awhile then returned to wait in the vehicle for the rental car company to issue a replacement, something they promised to do within the hour. Four hours later we were still sitting in a broken car – in subzero weather.

    Though it was worth it because guess what the replacement was? A Durango! Can you imagine? I can’t, and I got to ride around sitting on the seat heater for five whole days!

    In the end the escapade was doubly lucky because, if we’d gone the day originally planned, we would have been trapped by a whiteout that shut I-70 and left two thousand people in emergency shelters. From the safety of the city, the whole thing was beautiful:

  • The other night I was driven to yonder far distant land (translation: an unincorporated area of Aurora County that literally did not exist the last time I was in Colorado) and picked up the always amazing Ade. At the home of his stepmother. Where I wheedled an introduction to at least one sister.

    Can you believe it? People who know Ade from Seattle probably suspect he hatched fully formed, but I now have proof otherwise!

    We backtracked countless miles in search of a drinking establishment and ended up at the Night Shift Saloon, where Byron fed quarters to the juke box and befriended the locals.

    Ade and I got all silly on cocktails and wine, talking fast and furious about love and sex and doomsday cults and all manner of oddity. As one does. Why are so many of my most cherished confidantes Bus Stop refugees? I don’t know, but I am endlessly thankful for their friendship:

  • I do not make New Year resolutions but yesterday I arrived at a momentous decision. Brace yourself.

    Over the last four years I have given up coffee, red wine, and hair dye. Now I am repudiating the one remaining addiction I revel in. After all, if my friends can kick heroin or crack, I can certainly take the withdrawal of my daily bubble fix. Right? So I did it. I made the choice. I’m now twenty-four hours into my seltzer sobriety.

    Who knows how long it will last – I may weaken and succumb even later tonight. But at least I am making the attempt. For those who do not know me in real life, this is a huge thing. I’ve dragged bottles of sparkling water on public transportation in a dozen different countries. Carried such heavy bags my arms were bruised on long brutal hikes across all manner of terrain no matter what the weather. Six liters every single day!

    In Portland I used an ancient VW van as my recycling center, and it was always full to bursting. In all other houses my residence has been declared by the extraordinary amount of recycling in the bins.

    Nowadays no matter how hard I work to haul it away, every storage cupboard on the boat is stuffed with empty bottles. I love the stuff. More than any food, or cinnamon jelly beans, or cute fluffy kittens. When I don’t drink it my skin cracks and bleeds, but hey – maybe I can switch to plain? Cause who knows what the carbonation is rendering to my innards, would be the logic. Or something. I think I need to go drink some more tap water now.

    Happy New Year!

  • Have trouble keeping track of where I am at any given moment? Me too!

    Right now I’m sitting in the lodge at Loveland – literally on the Continental Divide.

    I was born below sea level. High altitudes make me queasy! And no, I will not be skiing. My mother says I’m not allowed. My kid is, however, welcome to ride those terrifying lifts if he so desires.

    He is at least a cautious sort; his sister at the same age was notorious for managing to take herself to the wrong mountain and have such alarming adventures she was rescued by ski patrol not once, but twice – after the park closed. Yep, this is me in a knitted cap. Revel for ye shall never see this in real life. Cheers!

  • An article I wrote for the Guardian was selected by the readership as one of the Best of the Year.

    Want to know what I was rattling on about? Click for more.

  • I did not even vaguely attempt to do any holiday shopping before Friday afternoon.

    After rampaging about the Bay Area for what seemed weeks but really amounted to about six hours (pretty good considering I don’t know my way around) I finally had it all covered.

    Exhausted, I shoved the loot in Jen’s bedroom closet, closed the door and turned the latch.

    Not realizing that the satisfying click meant that I had actually locked the door.

    Or, more importantly, that said lock has no known key.

    Jen was highly amused – in all the years she has lived here it has apparently never occurred to her to turn that particular knob.

    This is now officially the Christmas Mommy Hired the Locksmith to Liberate Our Gifts.

    Ho ho ho!

  • I have migrated to Oakland, where I am borrowing an apartment from an old friend. The first thing I found when I opened the kitchen cupboard was a mug featuring the name of a long-closed coffee shop and the slogan A Place to Be. By Youth for Youth. 

    Normally I would have frowned and immediately blocked the whole thing, but since I’ve acquired appropriate and timely emotions the sight made me wince in pain.

    Twenty years ago my entire life centered on the creation of something called the Youth Initiative – and the corollary establishment of an autonomous multi-purpose center where we could do whatever we liked.

    The coffee shop idea started from my particular vision but it was a group project. Ten or so people worked collaboratively to establish nonprofit status, raise money, work the media. I was the person with the clipboard, directing (KTS would say badgering) everyone to work together toward what in retrospect was quite a lofty goal.

    The pain and rage of the car accident had stripped away everything else, and I threw myself into work as an imperfect solace. The Youth Initiative was the center of my life, the one thing keeping me alive long enough to testify in the lawsuits. It was the all-consuming passion that occupied me as school and friends were beyond reach.

    My accomplishments inspired people to write my letters of recommendation for university, convinced half a dozen scholarship boards to fund my continuing education, put me in the papers and on television.

    It was also the place where I learned everything I needed to know about organizational chaos, the limits of idealism, and the endemic nature of human corruption.

    I remained fully committed until the whole thing was launched and viable, but eventually left to go to college, distancing myself from the group because I felt it really ought to be run by the people who used the facility.

    Jen K remained on staff for a few more years, and helped navigate the eventual closure, a pattern she would repeat in other jobs. She was literally the last one standing when one of the most spectacularly famous dot.coms succumbed to bankruptcy; it was her hand that locked the door on the last day.

    Toward the end of my grad school career I went back to do a case study about the Youth Initiative (participatory research methodologies, anyone?) and was not at all surprised to find that the project had been hijacked by well-meaning adults who imperiously directed that the activist portions of the endeavor – condom distribution and environmental protests, for instance – should be eliminated to pander to the foundations that gave us money. Of course, once the idealism vanished, the project died.

    During the course of my research I obtained all of the institutional archives: the newspaper cuttings, videos, television clips, awards, the tangible documentation of what we accomplished.

    By the time I finished the case study nobody was around to take the files back. The whole muddle is intact on a shelf in the basement of my Portland house. Jen K has the cups, t-shirts, posters, ephemera.

    We’re both just two kids from the county who somehow managed to stumble away. The fact that we have this strange, complicated history is amazing. It is an honor and privilege to know her so many years later, and to be a guest in her home.

  • I’m currently perched in a twelfth floor hotel room in downtown San Francisco and it is so nice to be back in the states. Mmm, guacamole…

  • Earlier this week I looked about vaguely and realized that Jean had not joined the festivities. I texted Rachel to inquire and she answered He was kicked out, yo.

    In other words, deported.

    The government took away one of my favorite playmates! I sincerely doubt that the new immigration rules were intended to round up conservative legal scholars with posh accents.

  • Today I went to the post office to fill out a change of address form. Except, you know what? In jolly ye olde world they require proof of identity for such niceties, and I lack sufficient documents.

    I do have a passport, with the relevant work visa. I do not have any secondary evidence of existence like: credit cards, utility bills, bank accounts, driving license, television license, council tax, mortgage or lease agreements, government benefits forms, UK Voter registration.

    Yes, it is true…. I am living almost completely off the grid at this point. If I had extra passports I’d be just like Jason Bourne! The woman at the counter very reluctantly accepted my mooring license whilst commenting Now that’ll flummox em!

  • The sketchy cafe where I receive postal mail went out of business unexpectedly. While I was in Rome.

    Panic!

    But some of my fellow boaters run a postal – slash – courier service out of a shed somewhere down river. Problem solved!

  • Yesterday morning was bright and sunny and I dragged myself over the river to a hotel, where I said goodbye to one of my dearest friends. We both have cold dark hearts so there were no tears shed, at least not publicly. Though later on the boat I built a fire and listened to music he gave me and felt quite catastrophically sad. I am not a naturally friendly person; it takes extraordinary effort for me to participate in simple social endeavors.

    Instead I always choose the big, difficult, brilliant, exhilarating, and treacherous options. I like to perform, I like to throw feasts, I like to be surrounded by intense love. He asked when I will be back in Seattle and the honest answer is not until next summer, maybe not even then.

    I have been invited to Budapest and Brazil and and and…. I really do want to lay around Capitol Hill apartments watching movies, and drink champagne in fancy restaurants with Mark Mitchell, and stand at Laura’s karaoke altar laughing as she tells me she has no sympathy for my problems.

    The most significant of which is the fact that I love people scattered across the face of the earth. This has been a year of departures and change; I seem to be the sort of person who is always leaving something or someone behind.

    Goodbye is my permanent state.